Guide Title: Disassembly of LCD Frame
Created by: Compman55
How to dissasemble your LCD.
- Arima: W730-K8 based laptops "Any Shadow Case"
- eMachines: m2350, m2352, m68xx, m64xx
- Gateway: m520, 74xx, 72xx
- Targa: Visionary 811
- Voodoo: Envy M:860, and many other models not listed here.
- #1 magnetic Phillips screw driver
- Small flat head screw drivers
- Credit card or other type of stiff card
- Small flashlight , LED works the best
- Towels or other soft cloths
- Rubber surgical gloves, wash after putting on!!!
- Tube of medium strength thread locker (Blue)
Before Getting Started
Tampering with any internal components excluding, external ram slot, DVD drive, and hard drive will void your warranty. So you will be taking a moderate risk. There are ways the manufacture can identify if you have been inside. Hopefully this guide will help reduce this risk. The tools listed above are mandatory to do the procedure correctly.
- Diagnose the problem first, and purchase necessary parts.
- Obtain a replacement inverter and if needed, a wiring harness. Inverter Part # 83-120082-3000.
- Make certain environment is very clean, and free of static.
- Remove battery, and AC power source from laptop.
Figure 1: Obtain an inverter Part # 83-120082-3000. Verify that it looks the same. Ninety percent of all backlight flickering is due to a faulty inverter and/or the wiring harness. Grounding also plays and important roll in stable backlighting.
Figure 2: Start off with the lid in the closed position.
Figure 3: Remove the 2 screws indicated in red.
Figure 4: DO NOT USE FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER!!!! It will put marks in the plastic. Press very hard in the dead center of the silver hinge covers and at the same time pull upwards. Use caution not to break the tabs, if it will not unlatch you are not pressing hard enough.
Figure 5: Fully open the lid very slowly and make sure hinge covers do not snap back in place. You may need to wedge a screwdriver in each gap to prevent this. Next you will want to cover the end of your flat screwdriver with tape and pry in between the hinge cover and LCD housing. The areas circled in red are the least likely place to show scratching. Once you get those loose, pull up on the left hand side of the cover and slip a credit card under the bezel working your way to the right hand side. Hopefully it will release the tabs without breaking. Once loose, flip it upside down and release the tab on the ribbon connector, then pull the ribbon out of the PCB paying attention to the direction it goes in.
Figure 6: Next, remove the 2 screws holding the keyboard in place.
Figure 7: Next you will need to remove the (4) screws circled in red, being careful not to mix them up. Use caution not to leave fingerprints on this plate when reinstalling!!!!
Figure 8: Once the cover plate is removed, you will see the inverter wire coming from the motherboard, being routed thru the heatsink and then into the LCD. If replacing the harness, use caution not to ruin the tape. Also use caution removing the ground screw from the heatsink. Often times the entire screw will loosen rather than just the ground screw. In this case, remove the entire harness first, and then spin the harness along with the screw to avoid twisting the wires.
Figure 9: You will need to use your small flat head screwdriver and remove all the rubber screw plugs. Use caution not to scratch the plastic! Next, remove all six Phillips screws circled in red.
Figure 10: Now, this is where the fun beings. With your finger nails only, pry the sides apart. Once you get the middle started, you may use a credit card to help pry it the rest of the way.
Figure 11: Next you will need to use your credit card to break loose the double sided tape surrounding the LCD frame. Use extreme caution not to scratch the LCD while doing this! If you have an "ultrabright" screen you may want to tape it off first. Work the credit card into the frame about ¼" inch on all four sides, then drag it back and fourth thus breaking the tape seam. Note: Some people state they only had tape on the top and bottom. After the seams are broken, you will just need to work it apart by starting at one spot and working all the way around the frame until it comes apart. You will also need to hold the latches over to allow the hooks to clear.
Figure 12: This is what the LCD panel will look like once you get the frame off. I recommend while you’re this far, make a trip to your local auto parts store and obtain some blue, medium strength thread locker and apply it to the 4 hinge screws. Then tighten the screws as tight as humanly possible to avoid them from loosening up in the future.
Figure 13: Here you will notice several strips of metal tape, remove the one for the inverter and the one for the input wire carefully to avoid damage. Next, pull the inverter out by lifting up on the right side first, then the rest should slide out. Using a small flat head screwdriver, unplug the connectors from the inverter.
Figure 14: Now that you’ve got the inverter out, inspect the connectors, wires, and the ground tape for and damage and replace as needed. After you do this, the assembly is in reverse. When installing the inverter, make sure the brass ground post lines up with the ground tape. I recommend temporarily installing the power button bar to test the function of the LCD before putting it all back together. DON’T FORGET TO USE THREAD LOCKER AND RETIGHTEN THOSE HINGE SCREWS!!!!!!!!!!!!
This guide was designed for removal and replacement of the LCD backlight inverter, and wiring harness. For those who had the courage and basic "know how" to do this procedure, I hope this guide helped overcome some the initial fear and "cloud points" you may have had. Good Luck, and as always, your feedback is always appreciated.